Old school technique.

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Old school technique.

Postby Rick L » Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:01 pm

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This was done as an illustration demo. It uses a crazy technique that was developed by one of the current American masters: C.F. Payne. You start with a basic drawing in colored pencil for the facial details, fix that, do a light wash in acrylics for the lightest skin tones, do some watercolor on top of that and pull out some of the lights while it's still damp. Then you flow a very scary oil wash of dioxizine purple and permanent green over the whole thing... after it sets up for a few minutes, you erase with a kneaded eraser to pull out the lights again. After that dries, you come in with colored pencils, oils, airbrush, whetever, to bring out the details. It's nuts, but, damn, it works!
Last edited by Rick L on Fri Jul 08, 2005 2:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby eyewoo » Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:38 pm

It looks great... can you post a close up detail?
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Postby douglasbot » Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:49 pm

Wow. Great image...but it sounds like a lot of work to get there. Love to see a visual step by step...and yes...a close up.

Excellent.

d.
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Postby jimmymcwicked » Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:52 pm

tuskegee redtails. looks great!
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Ask and you shall receive...

Postby Rick L » Fri Jun 24, 2005 4:19 pm

Ask and you shall receive...
Image
Early stages of the pencil (Prismacolor and Verithin) phase (that's a scrap piece of paper under my hand to keep things clean and free of oil). You can use colors here, but since the details were going to be fairly dark, I stuck with black. Once this is done, the drawing is sprayed with fixatif.

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The acrylic wash goes on to establish the lightest local colors and values. I also painted in the blacks with black acrylic... no details yet. After the acrylics are done, a layer of watercolor in darker values is laid down on top, and while it is still slightly damp, a semi-dry brush is used to pull out the lighter values.

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Here, the other flat colors have been laid in as well. Then, the oil wash of Dioxazine Purple, Permanent Green and Permtine is applied. The oil wash unifies the color palette and drops the overall value a few steps with a nice neutral tone. After 20 or 30 minutes, I begin to use a kneaded eraser to pull off the areas that need to be brightened. After this step, it's just a matter of going in with colored pencils, oils and or acrylics to refine the details. I then masked off the foreground elements with acetate and airbrushed acrylics for the sky and clouds (an optional step).

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This is a close-up of the hands...you can really see the grain of the pencils. Also, the oil wash tends to accentuate the natural tooth of the Strathmore 240 (cold press) board.

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Here's the face up close. It sounds like a very involved technique, and it is, but once you get the steps down, it's pretty fast. Hope this sheds some light on this nutty technique!
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Postby Egg Nog Gamer » Sat Jun 25, 2005 11:06 pm

:shock: Beautiful!
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Postby ven » Sun Jun 26, 2005 2:04 am

I had seen some of your entries for IF, including this one, and always wondered how you got to this detail.

Pretty cool step by step...
Image
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Postby BlueHarp411 » Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:59 am

Beautiful!! Really enjoyed your site also.

Jill
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Postby rainboy » Sun Jun 26, 2005 11:46 am

wow... thanks for sharing!
ImageImage
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Postby Rick L » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:32 pm

Thanks, everyone! I'm glad I shot these WIP photos for my class...never thought I'd end up posting them here.
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Postby Neneuche » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:35 pm

boy, that's pretty!
I never tried that technique of prismacolour under acrylics. I was afraid to smudge everything into a blackish goo. But I didn't think of fixative. Is it the same kind we use for charcoal?
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Postby Rick L » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:52 pm

Neneuche-
Prismacolor has enough wax binder in it that you can paint over it with acrylics without the resulting "goo". However, if you want to do the eraser technique with the oil wash, you MUST fix everything beforehand or the oils will soak into the board and will not lift off. I used Krylon Fix, but it alters the tooth of the board a bit. Chris Payne uses a brand I've never heard of, and can't seem to find...oh well. I'd do some practice pieces before you spend hours on a drawing and then paint over it...disaster is not an impossibility!
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Postby PaintMonster » Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:26 am

AWESOME!!
Image
--Marty
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Postby CopyNumberFive » Mon Jun 27, 2005 1:30 pm

As much as I love some of the digital illos here on the board, I have to say that good old analog still comes off much warmer. Kind of like the difference between records and cds. Great piece, I'm a big fan of Payne's work and you nailed the technique.
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Postby walrus » Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:19 am

Omigosh, what a painstaking process! You really do good work with it - beatiful stuff! Thanks for sharing your process in such detail.

-mike
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